Anyone have experience with Satisified Pads? - Topic Powered by eve community

Filter and Lubrication Consultant

Posted

I just turned 80K last night and the rears just started squeeling. I have EBC Green's on the front and love them, but not sure it is really needed for the rear.

Looking for some suggestions.

____________________________________________________
2003 Dodge Ram 1500 QC SB 5.7L Hemi Express Limited Edition
Performance Mods:
Bomz Air Intake w/AMSOIL EAAU3590 Air Filter, 295/50 General Grabber UHP Tires, AMSOIL'd EVERYTHING!, Jet Stream, IAT mod, Superchip, FlowMaster SUV SI/SO, Thundervolt Full Length Wires, NGK Iridiums, AMSOIL By-Pass Kit, Power Slot Rotors w/EBC Green Pads, TCM wire pulled, Bilstein Shocks, APS Torque Converter 2500 Stall, Transgo Shift Kit, 195 T-Stat, Helwig Rear Anti Swaybar, Moe's Traction Bars w/Shims, Ground Force 2" Drop Shackles, 6.1 Cam w/Manley Springs, 6.1 Rods & Titanium Retainers, Viper Fan w/FK60 controller, Pacesetter Long Tubes & Y Pipe, Flowtech Exhaust Cutout, ATI 5% UD Harmonic Balancer, 4.10 Sierra Gears, M&H Slicks

Best 60ft 1.973
14.172@93.99MPH 345HP/346Torque

Future Mods: Custom Grind Cam and Heads

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Posts: 2373 | Location: Union City, CA | Registered: 13 November 2006

chefred112

Posted

...how about Scott's old pads...still have plenty left...LOL

Stu's Spartan cam-Stu's Big valve heads-4.10 gears-Mark VIII efan-pacesetter LT's-shift kit- RamHammer CAI-true dual exhaust-Magnaflow dumped-dual DMH e-cutout- SC Flashpaq-PSC1 tuner-180 t-stat

60ft - 1.832, 1/8 - 8.39, 1/4 - 13.356@99.12

Posts: 1540 | Location: Newark, CA | Registered: 10 January 2007

Ignored post by chefred112 posted

Filter and Lubrication Consultant

Posted

That's a thought.

When you change pads you should turn your rotors. And putting on hold pads is bad juju I'm told.

I need to find a local place to turn slotted rotors is my problem right now.

Posts: 2373 | Location: Union City, CA | Registered: 13 November 2006

Ignored post by BigART posted

Superjay

"Jay"

President, South Carolina Chapter

HTC.com Engine Specialist

Posted

Don't know about Satisfied Pads, but Rancher can tell ya about Depends.

2003, Std. SWB, SLT, 20", 4:56 gear, AFE CAI, Superchip, 6.1 cam, 6.1 heads, Manley springs, retainers, pushrods, Edelbrock Hedders, 195 T-Stat, 8.2 Taylor, AEM, Power Wire, ARC-1,Amsoil Everything, and more. Veni Vidi Vici

HTC.com Titan Killer Club

Posts: 23268 | Location: Isle of Palms, SC | Registered: 20 June 2004

Ignored post by Superjay posted

chefred112

Posted

quote:
Originally posted by BigART:
That's a thought.

When you change pads you should turn your rotors. And putting on hold pads is bad juju I'm told.

I need to find a local place to turn slotted rotors is my problem right now.

lol...i'm only kidding with you since that last convo we had about 2nd hand brakes/rotors..

Posts: 1540 | Location: Newark, CA | Registered: 10 January 2007

Ignored post by chefred112 posted

Filter and Lubrication Consultant

Posted

Well I thought it was the rear brakes, but I soon realized it was the front.

The front drivers side, for the 2nd time, was much more foregone then the passenger. I'm wondering if I have some sort of equalization problem in the brake system???

I bought the Satisfied Pro Ceramin front and back. I got the front done after braking one of the caliper bolts. I will do the rear tomorrow.

So far they seem pretty nice. They don't have the groove down the middle like other performance pads and the don't have the warning indicator on them. So I will just keep a closer eye on them when swapping tires at the track.

Posts: 2373 | Location: Union City, CA | Registered: 13 November 2006

Ignored post by BigART posted

Filter and Lubrication Consultant

Posted

Here's an update...

The don't grab right away like the EBC's, but they're better then factory. I would have to say they're in between performance wise. Time will tell how long these last.

Posts: 2373 | Location: Union City, CA | Registered: 13 November 2006

Ignored post by BigART posted

Hemi Jeff

"Jeff"

Posted

Any place that cuts brake rotors should able able to cut the slotted ones. They just can't cut as much on each pass like they would a standard rotor. When I asked a friend of mine to do a set he said that unless they have almost no warp you won't be able to cut them because they are so close to being out of spec even brand new.

05 RC/SB 1500 2WD Mineral Gray PaceSetter LT's, Y-pipe, Flowmaster 40 Dumped, CAI, Taylor Shorties w/ NGK 5306 Plugs, Superchip Tuner, Power Wire, custom rollpan with Toyota Supra taillights... Much more to come.

14.23 @ 95 MPH

*I'd rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6*

Posts: 2443 | Location: Warminster, PA | Registered: 18 March 2006

Ignored post by Hemi Jeff posted

Filter and Lubrication Consultant

Posted

Wow, thanks. I had a feeling there was something to do with slotted rotors.

Posts: 2373 | Location: Union City, CA | Registered: 13 November 2006

Ignored post by BigART posted

Hemi5

Posted

I used to turn rotors everyday, and you can turn slotted and drilled. But to do it right the cutting blades need to be round carbide. If you use the triangle shaped bits you will not get a true cut. Everyone needs to ask the shop that is turning your rotors if they are using the round bits. They should know right away because the bits are not cheap. Even with stock rotors you get a much better cut with the round bits than with the triangle bits.

Always change your pads, never reuse them after getting new or turned rotors. I know that you could do this a few years ago, but pad formula's have changed. When you turn a rotor it has a magnetic field and it will allow all the loose metal that is in the pad to stick to the rotor. That is were uneven wear and the noise that we all hate come from.

www.SynMotors.com

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Posts: 184 | Location: Lawrenceville, GA | Registered: 27 October 2005

Ignored post by Hemi5 posted

Filter and Lubrication Consultant

Posted

Thanks Tony.

So far I like them on the front. I will be doing the rear brakes soon.

Posts: 2373 | Location: Union City, CA | Registered: 13 November 2006

Ignored post by BigART posted

Torque

Posted

quote:
Originally posted by BigART:
The front drivers side, for the 2nd time, was much more foregone then the passenger. I'm wondering if I have some sort of equalization problem in the brake system???

Did you ever have that TSB done to replace the faulty calipers on the front of your '03?

Evidently they're made with some material around the piston that swells with heat and won't let the pistor retract fully when you let up on the brake pedal. That causes the pads to drag overheating the rotors and causing them to warp. I had the TSB done way back when I first got my truck because my rotors warped bad at about 12K miles. The damage was done and no amount of turning them could fix, so I threw on a set of Powerslots and Hawk HPS pads.

2003 QC 1500 Hemi 4x4. 33x12.50 Mickey Thompson MTX on 17x9 Xtreme Alloys, Rancho RS9000X w/in-cab remote control, Airaid CAI, Autolite XP plugs, Magnaflow 14589, Powerslot rotors w/ Hawk HPS pads, ATS fender flares, SS nerf bars, Superchips tuned.
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Posts: 4 | Location: Ft Collins, Colorado | Registered: 16 March 2008

Ignored post by Torque posted

Filter and Lubrication Consultant

Posted

Yes I had the TSB done.

My buddy claims it's because I'm 320lbs and it makes the truck harder to stop on the drivers side. There might be some weird truth to that.

Posts: 2373 | Location: Union City, CA | Registered: 13 November 2006

Ignored post by BigART posted

Hemi Jeff

"Jeff"

Posted

I doubt its because of your weight. I mean, it is a truck, its supposed to haul like trailers and other heavy stuff right? I know a trailer is put on the back but would that then mean the back brakes wear out fast? I think you just had some bad luck with sticky calipers.

Posts: 2443 | Location: Warminster, PA | Registered: 18 March 2006

Ignored post by Hemi Jeff posted