Got some new powerslot rotors with hawk pads and put them on and they were warped within the first day if they weren't warped right out of the box. I thought it might be the rears that were causing the problem, so I bought a dial indicator and checked them. They were fine. The right was .005" and the left was .001" runout. Good thing I looked cuz I found a loose caliper bolt that was almost ready to fall out. I am going to check the new ones to see how warped they are in the morning to make sure thats what the problem is. It there anything else that could cause this to happen so fast or are these rotors just crap?

That sucks. Powerslot makes good rotors. I've never had a problem with them or even heards anything negative about them. I hope you get it figured out. Goog luck.

Contact their customer service at (818) 709-4800... see what they can do for you.

I checked the front rotors this morning. They were almost .030" out!!! In one spot it was .012" out just between one set of slots! I'm going back to the store I bought them at and I am gonna see if I can get refunded and just get myself some decelarotors instead. I found the other thread in here about someone with the same problem and now I don't even want to risk getting another shitty set. I wish I looked through here before I bought them.

I have had them on my truck for over 2 years and no problem. My rear stockers warped in 15k.

I've hear the Napa ones are the best on our trucks.

maybe there is a wrong way to put on the pads? need to make sure they arent indexed for inside pad and outside pad.

quote:

maybe there is a wrong way to put on the pads? need to make sure they arent indexed for inside pad and outside pad.

that's a new one on me... the rears are identical pads, or so i though.

educate me please.

As far as I can tell, the pads are identical.

Well, today I found some time to put on the old rotors which had been turned down to straighten them out. Some improvement, but the shudder is still somewhat there! WTF I'm getting choked. What could be causing this? Rear rotors checked out ok. Can .005" runout on the rear rotor cause a bad shudder? I really getting sick of this carnival ride. Please help me!

well not every car is the same but ive done plenty of brakes lol sometimes the pads have to be put on a certain way, and if there is a chamfered end it always goes torwards the rear, some pads have one side for the piston side to prevent squeel and if mixed up it can make all sorts of pain in the asses. To warp a rotor is pretty hard to do with brand new pads though. If there is a shudder it could be other problems too. The first place to look is the old crapable dana trac loc lol. Thats the reason i now have an Srt-10 rear end. I thought my brakes were shuddering i knew my front ones had plenty of grooves but i ruled that one out, next it was u joints or driveshaft for me, u joints were crap but not the main problem, then one day i was launching pretty hard and i heard one of the nastiest sounds, it was like a "ka-chunk" and a "clack" at the same time found out my carrier was slacking up and i found those nasty little clips on the magnet and the bushing for the center pin was shelled so now i have a D60 out of a 10. I felt my shudder at about 20-30 mph and the steering wheel shook really bad at that speed no matter what gear espcecially on accel and decel.

Thanks for the response Johnny. I have ruled out the fronts being the problem even though the powerslots do seem to be warped, but there is clearly another problem. Unless the dial indicator I used is complete crap, (possible, says made in china) the back rotors also are true for the most part. Right side was .004" - .005" out and the left was .001". I am suspecting something in the rear end because there is not a whole lot of shudder in the wheel, if any at all. As well as trying 2 different sets of rotors with no major difference. It feels more like wheel hop, but when I am coming to a stop during moderate braking. The pedal does pulse a bit as well. It is also more noticable when I hit the brakes at higher speeds. I think the next step is to replace rear rotors after I have the front powerslots checked at the shop I bought them from. I would sure like to find out for sure though before I go spending more money.

John

okay now that you say that it does sound more like a brake problem, dont rule it out, a diff problem would be noticed without braking.

I'm taking in the rear rotors tomorrow to get turned down. Well see if that makes a difference. If it does I will be buying new powerslots for the rear as well. The difference in braking is very noticable between the two from what I could tell with the fronts.

Ok problem solved. It turns out my dial gauge was not very accurate to say the least. I has the shop check the rear rotors before they turned them and they were way out. I also had them check the front powerslots and they checked out fine within .001". Went and bought some rear powerslots and problem fixed. Truck stops great now with all the new rotors on. Pedal feels tighter too. Wish I had a better dial indicator.