Well after a week after installing the Trans(no)Go shfit kit. My trans is toast! Went to run to the store real quick and it started slipping and wouldn't shift out of 1st. Barely made it back home.

I called Transgo and they said to pull it apart and recheck everything. DUH! They don't know what could be the problem.
I pulled some codes
PO700
PO731
PO876
Any help would be appreciated.

quote:

Originally posted by Total Distortion:
I called Transgo and they said to pull it apart and recheck everything. DUH! They don't know what could be the problem.
I pulled some codes
PO700
P0700 Transmission Control System Malfunction

PO731
P0731 Gear I Incorrect ratio

PO876
P0786 Shift/Timing Solenoid Range/Performance

Any help would be appreciated.

There are what your codes mean, are ya sure that last one is correct?? cause there is no listing for a P0876.

All those codes seem to point to the valve body..... maybe ya installed something wrong?

I must have wrote down that last code wrong. It stated that it was for "UD Pressure-Switch Rationailty"

I been sitting here racking my brain trying to figure out what it could be. I have know idea. I installed everything per the instructions, I thought. I guess I'll drop the pan and VB tomorrow. I must be geting old or something, cause I never have this much trouble working on stuff.
Anyone know where I can get another set of the reprogramming kit instructions from transgo? Mine got soaked in atf and tossed them out.

any updates on this? did you get it figured out or find a copy of the directions?

It does sounds like something may not have been seated correctly. I keep hearing lots of issues about just getting the filter installed correctly when doing a service and only using one from Dodge.

Well basically I f'ed it up. I didn't put the input clutch assembly together correctly. It destroyed the clutches, bearings and whatnot. I ended up getting a used trans from an auto dismantler.

wow. sorry to hear that man.

So it sounds like you took it all the way apart to put in the snap ring and stuff?

I wouldnt think that this would have happened if you just put the basic part of the kit in.

Just curious. not trying rub it in or anything.

Yeah pretty much. I was trying to find help and nobody seemed to know anything about these transmissions, and well I talked myself into doing it anyway. If you know what you're doing it's not bad. Pop the cover off the front, pull the pump(swap in new parts), pull out input clutch assembly(swap snap ring) put it back together.
Realistically replacing the snap ring is not worth it, and beefing up the pump could be. Though you would need to drop the trans to do either. I would just stick with doing the VB. I ended up just doing that, plus the resistor, on the new trans and it still seems questionable. Is it an improvement yes, but is that gain worth the time involved? I wouldn't go out of my way to put one in again.

I think that is why most people only do the VB part of it. If mine was not done by a shop I know and trust that also cuts me a break on prices I would not have done anything but the VB. I as also getting my TC installed at the same time so the trans had to come out anyways.

Most people do not install the resistor since if you have a tuner you really do not need it.

I am happy with the results of my kit.

the resistor is to boost the line pressure, if you have a tuner like Superchips they don't touch the line pressure

i used the resistor plus superchips when i had it line pressure was just right

Or better yet, do like I did, mount the resistor on a toggle switch on your A pillar. Then you can increase the line pressure when you want or need it instead of having it on all of the time.

I like the switch idea too.......

Regardless, whether your running a toggle switch or not, the pcm will figure out a way to compensate for the increased resistance.
You should reset the pcm frquently....

quote:

Originally posted by guitarded:
I like the switch idea too.......

Regardless, whether your running a toggle switch or not, the pcm will figure out a way to compensate for the increased resistance.
You should reset the pcm frquently....

I agree, if you left it activated all of the time that probably would eventually happen, but I never had that happen. I don't need to leave the switch activated long enough for that to happen. When I do my 1/4 mile runs I activate it when I'm staging and deactivate it in the shut down area. Or when I take out someone on the street I just flip the switch at the stop light and shut it off after I pass them.