Here's a few pictures of my setup. I had this in my car but after some research and boredom, i decided to get a box and stick it in my truck.

The Amp is a Crossfire 600D. 600 watts RMS @ 12volts, can push a little over 900 watts RMS if the alternator will hold a steady 14.4v.

The Sub is a 10" Atomic Quantam Series Dual 2ohm voice coils wired down to 1 ohm.

I loved this setup in my car, it was in a vented box and would hit as low as 12s. But in this smaller sealed box, it doesn't hit as low, but has a nice responsive thump to it, which is fine with me because i don't listen to much rap anyways.

I think i'm gonna try to find a piece of diamond plate or something simular and fab it up to bolt to the two driver seat bolts that will cover up the amp wires, kind of a kick plate i suppose. Any ideas?

Well you could do the diamond plate cover, but if you had the wires ran under the amp instead of to the sides it would clean up the look alot more, get some 1/2" bushings to put under the amp and put the screws through them, then you can have the wires under the amp and it looks super clean, think you will be alot more pleased! Just an old installer trick from my old days!

i was more concerned with people putting there feet all over the wires and pulling something lose instead of the looks.

crossfire made some center pieces that let you connect two amps together to make it look like one bigger amp. i got one of those from my local shop and put it on the end. it's gonna do good protecting all my wires.

any of you guys have any experience with polyfil?? is it worth it?

I used polyfil before and never seen mutch difference in the sound but I know some setups can benefit from it more than others eliminating or reducing standing waves inside the enclosure, you just have to try it for yourself, its pretty cheep so make sure you use plenty of it

We used to use fill material like cotton pillow fill. It made the sound waves think the box is bigger than it is. We could pad just the back wall from the speaker and it would help a good bit.

I'll have to try it out.
I'm dreading pulling the speaker back out of the box. It's got a huge 90oz. magnet on the back of it, and it was fun wiggling that thing into this box.

LOL, Those things can be beast. What really sucks is if you strip out the screw holes from removing the speaker to much.

I always used insulation in both the subs and speaker box. Really made a big difference.

Try turning the amp 90 degrees so the wires stay under the seat. Do you have a capacitor between the battery and the amp? If not get one to keep from draining the battery / alt. Mine is mounted under the front middle seat. I had to take my seats out to install it this way, but it is nice and clean. I'll see if I can post some pics for you.

If you need a Cap for a 600d wattt amp then it has a problem. I have had systems with well over 1500 watts and never needed to change alt or add a cap. If the headlights dim when it hits try a new ground and maybe scrape the paint off the surface at the ground. I have installed car audio for over 24 years. A class D amp is a good amp and pulls less current than a class A or B. On a 10 it just shouldnt need that reserve power. Even if your listening to speed metal or some heavy rap you get a good battery and you should be good. Get one with some high CCA too. JMHO

But yeah turn the amp around like BigFoot said or even take the back of the back seat out and mount it so that the wires and knobs so they can be reached from above or below. I have a 12 JL Audio on a 250 watt Kenwood that hits hard enough that you can barely hear the rest of the speakers. Hope you can figure something out. Good Luck

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Hemiguy05,

Hemiguy what type of box do you use to be able to have enough air space for 12's?

I was hoping to go with 12" L7's but am thinking I wont have enough room so Might have to go with 10"L7's or 10" Of the Shallowmount subs kicker has out.

I built my own box. I only run one 12 in my truck. I used the passenger side and the JL audio sub doesnt need a bunch of room. I also built my box with fiberglass so it gave me more space. I also built the box about an inch higher than flush with the space under the seat. After I built it I actually had too much space and had to modify the fiberglass area to tune the sound better. I had a page up of the build but my site is having issues right now and I cant geet to it.
Have you ever done any fiberglass work?

I, with age, have also learned that more isnt always better. At least thats what I tell my wife.
I have tha stock head unit at this time and stock speakers. I am adding my alpine 6.5's in the rear doors soon, weather issues.
I like deck power on stock speakers with a sub on the rear channel. It just has a clean sound and is enough for me.

I used to have a CRX with 4 12's and 4000 watts. I have had 3 cars with 12's in them and I just like the sound of a 12. Ive had 10's and even had a set of the first 10 inch alpine subs they ever made. I am a fan of kicker too but the guys at the local stereo joint quit selling them and went to JL. I picked up a W-1 for $60 brand new.
If I can get the site up ill post a link.

Originally I wanted to use a 10 but ended up with enough room for a 12.

Oh wow looks good. How hard is it to do yourself?